Building Your First Custom Keyboard

A custom keyboard is a small stack of choices you can feel. A softer mounting style can make long typing sessions easier on your hands. A different plate material can shift the “pitch” of the board from sharp and clacky to lower and round. Even the same switch can sound completely different depending on what it’s mounted into.

This guide is designed for a first build: what matters, what doesn’t, and how to get from a box of parts to a keyboard you’re proud to use—without turning the hobby into a research project.

Why Build Custom?

Benefits of Custom Building

Custom building is popular for three reasons: control, comfort, and character. You choose the parts that define the experience—switch feel, keycap profile, layout, sound—and you can tune the board so it matches how you type rather than how a factory decided most people type.

It’s also one of the few hobbies where “small” upgrades teach you something real. The first time you fix a rattly spacebar, you learn what stabilizers actually do. The first time you swap plates, you learn that stiffness changes both sound and fatigue. A keyboard becomes a set of cause-and-effect experiments you can run at your desk.

Finally: a custom board is personal in a way most electronics aren’t. It can look minimal or loud, sound snappy or deep, and feel crisp or cushioned—without being “better,” just more yours.

Drawbacks

The trade-offs are real. A quality custom build often lands in the $200–$600 range, and premium builds can run higher once you add keycaps, switches, and tuning supplies.

Time is the second cost: your first build usually takes a few focused hours, and if you buy from group buys you might wait months for parts.

The learning curve is the final cost. You will make small mistakes (everyone does), but the good news is that most mistakes are fixable—and the fix is how you learn.

Build Complexity Tiers

Tier 1: Hot-Swap Prebuilt (Easiest)

What It Is: Buy complete keyboard, swap switches/keycaps

Components:

• Hot-swap keyboard (Keychron, GMMK)
• Replacement switches
• Replacement keycaps

Skills Required:

• Remove keycaps
• Remove/install switches (no soldering!)

Time: 30-60 minutes Cost: $100-250

Best For: Absolute beginners

Tier 2: Barebones Kit (Beginner-Friendly)

What It Is: Assembled case/PCB, you add switches and keycaps

Components:

• Barebones kit (PCB, plate, case pre-assembled)
• Switches (60-100 depending on layout)
• Keycaps
• Stabilizers (usually included)

Skills Required:

• Install stabilizers (if not pre-installed)
• Install switches into hot-swap sockets
• Install keycaps
• Flash firmware (optional)

Time: 2-4 hours Cost: $150-400

Best For: First-time builders

Popular Kits:

• Keychron V-series barebones ($70-90)
• Keychron Q-series barebones ($150-190)
• GMMK Pro barebones ($150)
• NK65 Entry Edition ($95)

Tier 3: Full Custom Kit (Intermediate)

What It Is: Unassembled kit, you build from scratch

Components:

• Case
• PCB (soldered or hot-swap)
• Plate
• Switches
• Stabilizers
• Keycaps
• Optional: foam, gaskets, dampeners

Skills Required:

• Assemble case
• Install stabilizers
• Clip, lube, tune stabilizers
• Lube switches (optional but recommended)
• Solder switches (if soldered PCB)
• Flash firmware

Time: 6-15 hours Cost: $250-600+

Best For: Enthusiasts ready for full control

Tier 4: Full Custom + Advanced Mods (Expert)

Additions:

• Hand-lubing every switch
• Spring swapping
• Filming switches
• Case foam modding
• Plate modding (flex cuts)
• Custom firmware (QMK)

Time: 15-30 hours Cost: $300-1,000+

Best For: Hobbyists chasing perfection

Components Needed

1. Case

The case is more than looks: it’s the main structure that sets weight, resonance, and the “stiffness” of the build. A heavy metal case tends to sound lower and feel more planted; a lighter plastic case tends to sound brighter and can feel more lively.

Materials:

• Plastic: Affordable, lighter, hollow sound
• Aluminum: Premium, solid, “thocky” sound
• Brass: Heavy, deep sound, expensive
• Acrylic: Unique aesthetic, transparent
• Wood: Warm sound, artisanal

Mounting Styles:

• Tray Mount: Screws into case directly (budget, firm)
• Gasket Mount: PCB sits on gaskets (premium, softer typing)
• Top Mount: PCB attached to top case (flex, bouncy feel)
• Plateless: No plate (extremely flexible, niche)

Cost: $50-300 depending on material and mounting

2. PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

The brain of the keyboard. Registers keypresses.

If you only remember one buying lesson, make it this: decide early whether you want hot-swap or soldered. Hot-swap is forgiving (and perfect for learning). Soldered offers more long-term flexibility for niche layouts and switch compatibility, but it raises the “cost of mistakes.”

Types:

• Hot-Swap: Sockets for tool-less switch installation
• Soldered: Requires soldering switches

Features to Look For:

• QMK/VIA support (programmability)
• RGB underglow (optional)
• Per-key RGB (optional)
• USB-C connection (modern standard)
• ESD protection

Cost: $30-80

Popular PCBs:

• DZ60 (60%, hot-swap or solder)
• KBD67 Lite (65%, hot-swap)
• Bakeneko65 (65%, hot-swap, affordable)

3. Plate

Sits between switches and PCB. Provides rigidity.

Plates are the underrated “feel and sound” lever. Stiffer plates (metal, carbon fiber) tend to sound higher and feel crisper; softer plates (polycarbonate) can sound deeper and feel more forgiving. This isn’t a strict rule—foam, case, and mounting style can override it—but it’s a useful starting mental model.

Materials:

• Aluminum: Firm, “clacky” sound
• Brass: Heavier, deeper sound
• Polycarbonate (PC): Softer, “thocky” sound, flexible
• FR4 (Fiberglass): Budget, neutral sound
• Carbon Fiber: Stiff, premium

Plateless Builds: Some skip plate for maximum flex. Not recommended for beginners.

Cost: $20-60

4. Switches

See Switch Guide for full details.

Switches get the attention because they’re the part you touch—but they’re also the easiest part to change later if you go hot-swap. For a first build, optimize for “no surprises”: reputable switch, consistent weight, no exotic mods required.

Quantity Needed:

• 60%: 61 switches
• 65%: 68 switches
• TKL: 87 switches
• Full-size: 104 switches

Buy 10-20% extra for testing, mistakes, and spares.

Cost: $25-150 depending on switch choice

5. Stabilizers

Stabilize large keys (spacebar, shift, enter, backspace).

Stabilizers are where most first builds either feel premium or feel annoying. You can buy the nicest case in the world and still hate a spacebar that ticks. The good news: a basic stabilizer tune (clip if needed, lube the wire, assemble carefully) has one of the highest “effort to improvement” ratios in the hobby.

Types:

• Screw-In: Best (attaches to PCB with screws)
• Clip-In: Snaps into PCB (less stable)
• Plate-Mount: Attaches to plate (budget option)

Brands:

• Durock V2 ($15-20) - best value
• TX Stabilizers ($25-30) - premium
• Cherry ($10-15) - budget, requires heavy modding
• C³ Equalz ($20-25) - smooth

Cost: $10-30 per set

6. Keycaps

See Keycaps Guide for full details.

Keycaps change both ergonomics and sound. Profile affects how your fingers travel; material affects how sharp or soft the board sounds. If you’re deciding between two sets, prioritize profile and feel over aesthetics—you look at caps, but you live on them.

Material:

• PBT (recommended, durable)
• ABS (smooth, shiny over time)

Profile:

• Cherry (low, popular)
• OEM (medium height)
• SA (tall, retro)
• KAT, MT3, etc.

Cost: $30-200 depending on material and design

7. Optional Components

Optional doesn’t mean pointless. Foam and lube can “smooth” harshness and reduce hollow case resonance, but they can’t rescue a fundamentally uncomfortable layout or a case you don’t like using. Treat these as finishing touches, not foundations.

Foam/Dampening:

• Case foam ($10-20) - reduces hollow sound
• Plate foam ($10-15) - dampens key sound
• PCB foam ($10-15) - isolates PCB vibration

Lube & Tools:

• Krytox 205g0 ($10-15) - switch lube
• Krytox XHT-BDZ ($10) - stabilizer lube
• Brushes ($5-10)
• Switch opener ($5-10)
• Keycap puller ($5)
• Switch puller ($5)

Step-by-Step Build Process

Phase 1: Planning & Ordering

Start with constraints, not aesthetics. The easiest way to pick the right first board is to decide what you need on a normal week: arrow keys or no, function row or no, numpad or no. Once you know that, the rest is just taste.

Step 1: Choose layout. Common starting points: 65% (compact but includes arrows) or 75% (adds function row). If you’re unsure, skim the Layout Guide and pick the smallest layout that still supports your daily shortcuts.

Step 2: Set a budget. Entry builds often land in the $150–$250 range, mid-range in $250–$400, and premium builds in $400–$700+ once you include keycaps and tuning supplies. The budget isn’t about status; it’s about preventing a parts list that quietly balloons.

Step 3: Select components. Many first builds are easiest as a barebones kit (case + PCB + plate), then you choose switches, keycaps, and stabilizers. Add foam and lube only if you’re already excited about the base build.

Step 4: Order with timing in mind. In-stock parts ship now. Group buys can take 6–18 months; they’re fun later, but frustrating for a first build when you’re trying to learn quickly.

Phase 2: Preparation

Set yourself up for a calm build: good light, a tray for screws, and the patience to stop and test instead of forcing parts together.

Step 5: Gather tools. You need a Phillips screwdriver, tweezers, and a keycap puller. If your board is hot-swap, add a switch puller. If you’re soldering, add a soldering iron, solder, and a basic understanding of ventilation and heat safety.

Step 6: Test the PCB before you build. This saves more heartbreak than any other step. Plug the PCB into your computer, use tweezers to short each switch contact, and verify every key position registers in a keyboard tester. If anything fails, stop and contact the seller before you install parts.

Phase 3: Stabilizer Installation

Stabilizers are the “big key” mechanism. If you want a board to feel expensive, make the spacebar feel controlled and quiet.

Step 7: Prepare stabilizers. If your stabilizers have extra plastic feet, clip them to reduce bottom-out rattle. Smooth any rough edges. Optional: add a small strip of tape or a thin pad where the stabilizer hits the PCB to soften impact noise.

Then lube: a thicker grease on the wire where it contacts the housing reduces ticking; a thin lube on plastic-to-plastic surfaces keeps movement smooth. Wipe off excess—too much lube can feel mushy and attract dust.

Step 8: Install stabilizers. Install the stabilizers into the PCB (screw-in if supported), make sure the wire moves freely and returns to center, and do a quick test press with a keycap. This is the moment to fix ticking—before switches and keycaps bury the mechanism.

Phase 4: Switch Installation

Step 9 (optional): Lube switches. Lubing switches can be transformative, but it’s not a requirement for a first build. If you’re building hot-swap, a great strategy is to build stock first, learn what you want changed, then lube later.

If you do lube, use a thin, even layer on friction points and keep it consistent across all switches. The goal is smoothness, not grease.

Step 10: Install switches.

Hot-Swap:

1. Align switch pins with PCB socket
2. Press firmly until seated
3. Ensure no bent pins!
4. Repeat for all switches

Soldered:

1. Insert switch into plate + PCB
2. Flip board over
3. Solder each pin (quick 1-2 second contact)
4. Check for cold solder joints
5. Repeat for all switches

Step 11: Test switches. Before you close the case, test every key. Fix non-registering switches immediately—almost all first-build issues are easier to solve when the board is still open.

Phase 5: Assembly

Step 12: Assemble the case.

1. Insert switch/plate/PCB assembly into case
2. Screw case together (don’t overtighten!)
3. For gasket mount: ensure gaskets seated properly

Overtightening is a surprisingly common mistake. Most screws want “snug,” not “max torque.”

Step 13: Install keycaps.

1. Start with spacebar (largest key, confirms stab works)
2. Install modifier keys (Shift, Enter, Backspace)
3. Install alphanumeric keys
4. Double-check orientation (legends facing you!)

Phase 6: Programming & Testing

Step 14: Flash firmware (if needed).

QMK/VIA Keyboards:

1. Download VIA software (easiest) or QMK Toolbox
2. Connect keyboard
3. Load keymap or create custom layout
4. Flash to keyboard

What You Can Customize:

• Key remapping (put Caps Lock wherever you want!)
• Layers (Fn key behaviors)
• Macros (complex key combos)
• RGB lighting (if supported)

Step 15: Final testing.

1. Type test on keyboard tester
2. Test every key
3. Test all layers (Fn combos)
4. Test stabilized keys (smooth? rattle?)

Step 16: Use it on purpose. Type on it for a week before you mod anything else. You’ll notice what matters to you (sound, fatigue, wobble, keycap profile) and you’ll avoid chasing changes you don’t actually need.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Switch Doesn’t Register

Possible Causes:

1. Bent pin on switch
2. Switch not fully seated (hot-swap)
3. Bad solder joint (soldered)
4. Dead PCB socket

Fixes:

1. Remove switch, straighten pin, reinstall
2. Press harder until click (hot-swap)
3. Re-solder joint (soldered)
4. Replace PCB socket (advanced) or use different socket

Stabilizer Rattle

Causes:

1. Not lubed
2. Poorly assembled
3. Loose fit

Fixes:

1. Remove stabilizer, lube properly
2. Ensure wire seated correctly in housing
3. Band-aid mod under stabilizer
4. Try different stabilizers (Durock > Cherry stock)

Keys Don’t Work in Certain Positions

Causes:

1. PCB column/row failure
2. Firmware issue

Fixes:

1. Test PCB before building (catch this early!)
2. Reflash firmware
3. Contact manufacturer (warranty claim)

Spacebar Sounds Awful

Causes: Stabilizer rattle (most common issue!)

Fixes:

1. Remove spacebar
2. Remove stabilizer
3. Lube wire and housing properly
4. Reinstall
5. Consider holee mod (bandaid + lube technique)

Build Cost Breakdown

Budget Build ($150-250)

• Case/PCB Kit: Keychron V2 barebones ($80)
• Switches: Gateron Yellow x70 ($20)
• Keycaps: Budget PBT set ($30)
• Stabilizers: Durock V2 ($15)
• Lube/Tools: $20
• Total: ~$165

Mid-Range Build ($300-450)

• Case/PCB Kit: Keychron Q2 ($170)
• Switches: Boba U4T x70 ($45)
• Keycaps: GMK Clone or quality PBT ($60)
• Stabilizers: TX Stabs ($25)
• Foam: $25
• Lube/Tools: $30
• Total: ~$355

Premium Build ($600-1,000)

• Case/PCB Kit: Mode Sonnet ($300)
• Switches: Holy Panda x70 ($70)
• Keycaps: GMK set ($120)
• Stabilizers: C³ Equalz ($25)
• Foam/Dampening: $40
• Lube/Tools/Extras: $50
• Total: ~$605

Time Investment

First Build (Hot-Swap, No Lube):

• Research & ordering: 5-10 hours
• Assembly: 2-3 hours
• Testing & tweaking: 1 hour
• Total: ~8-14 hours

First Build (Soldered, Lubed):

• Research & ordering: 5-10 hours
• Lubing switches: 4-6 hours
• Soldering: 2-4 hours
• Assembly & testing: 2 hours
• Total: ~13-22 hours

Subsequent Builds: Much faster! 2-6 hours depending on complexity.

Should You Build or Buy Prebuilt?

Build Custom If:

Build custom if you enjoy tinkering, want a very specific layout or sound/feel, and you’re willing to spend a few hours learning the basics. It’s also the right answer if you already know you’ll swap switches and keycaps—because you’ll end up doing “custom work” anyway.

Buy Prebuilt If:

Buy prebuilt if you need a keyboard immediately, want warranty simplicity, or you’re still learning what kind of switch and layout you prefer. A good prebuilt is a great teacher.

Hybrid Approach (BEST for Most):

For most people, the smartest path is hybrid: start with a hot-swap board, live with it for a month, then change one variable at a time. Swap switches. Try a different keycap profile. Tune stabilizers. When you can describe what you want (“deeper sound,” “softer bottom-out,” “lighter spring”), then build a full custom kit with confidence.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Mistake #1: Not Testing PCB First

Always test the PCB before assembly. It’s the single easiest way to avoid building a beautiful keyboard around a defective socket or row.

Mistake #2: Bending Switch Pins

Bent pins are the #1 hot-swap problem. Align carefully, press straight down, and if you feel unusual resistance, stop and check the pins instead of forcing it.

Mistake #3: Over-Lubing

Less is more. A thin, consistent layer beats a heavy application. Too much lube can make switches feel slow and can migrate where you don’t want it.

Mistake #4: Overtightening Screws

Snug, not tight. Over-tightening can crack acrylic cases, strip threads, or flex parts in ways that create new noises.

Mistake #5: Skipping Stabilizer Lube

Skipping stabilizer tuning makes an otherwise excellent board feel cheap. If you do one “mod” on your first build, do stabilizers.

Mistake #6: Buying Group Buy as First Build

Avoid long group buys for your first build. Learning is faster (and more fun) when you can build now, then iterate.

Resources

Communities:

• r/MechanicalKeyboards (Reddit)
• GeekHack forums
• Discord servers (MechKeys, Keebstuff)

Shops:

• KBDfans (China)
• CannonKeys (USA)
• Divinikey (USA)
• Keychron (Direct)
• Novelkeys (USA)

YouTube Channels:

• TaeKeyboards (builds, reviews)
• Alexotos (sound tests, builds)
• Taeha Types (premium builds)
• Keybored (beginner-friendly)

Final Thoughts

Your first custom keyboard doesn’t need to be perfect—it needs to be yours, and it needs to teach you what you like. Build something reliable, tune the stabilizers, and then pay attention: which keys do you avoid, which sound makes you smile, and which choices you’d change next time.

That’s the real secret of the hobby: you don’t discover your preferences by reading. You discover them by typing.

Next Steps

• Switch Guide - Choose your switches
• Keycaps Guide - Select keycaps
• Maintenance Guide - Care for your custom board