Skip to main content

Building Your First Custom Keyboard

9 min read

Building Your First Custom Keyboard

Building a custom keyboard gives you complete control over switches, layout, and aesthetics. This guide walks you through your first build.

Why Build Custom?

Benefits of Custom Building

Total Control:

  • Choose exact switches (not limited to prebuilt options)
  • Select keycap set you love
  • Pick case material and color
  • Customize layout and programmability

Better Typing Experience:

  • Premium components (gasket mount, aluminum case)
  • Lubed switches (smoother than any stock board)
  • Tuned stabilizers (no rattle)
  • Personalized sound profile

Learning Experience:

  • Understand how keyboards work
  • Troubleshooting skills
  • Appreciation for craftsmanship
  • Join enthusiast community

Unique:

  • No one else has your exact keyboard
  • Conversation starter
  • Personal expression

Drawbacks

Cost:

  • $200-600 typical for quality custom
  • More expensive than prebuilt (usually)

Time:

  • 3-10 hours for first build
  • Group buys can take 6-12 months to ship

Learning Curve:

  • Research required
  • Potential mistakes (learn from them!)

Build Complexity Tiers

Tier 1: Hot-Swap Prebuilt (Easiest)

What It Is: Buy complete keyboard, swap switches/keycaps

Components:

  • Hot-swap keyboard (Keychron, GMMK)
  • Replacement switches
  • Replacement keycaps

Skills Required:

  • Remove keycaps
  • Remove/install switches (no soldering!)

Time: 30-60 minutes Cost: $100-250

Best For: Absolute beginners

Tier 2: Barebones Kit (Beginner-Friendly)

What It Is: Assembled case/PCB, you add switches and keycaps

Components:

  • Barebones kit (PCB, plate, case pre-assembled)
  • Switches (60-100 depending on layout)
  • Keycaps
  • Stabilizers (usually included)

Skills Required:

  • Install stabilizers (if not pre-installed)
  • Install switches into hot-swap sockets
  • Install keycaps
  • Flash firmware (optional)

Time: 2-4 hours Cost: $150-400

Best For: First-time builders

Popular Kits:

  • Keychron V-series barebones ($70-90)
  • Keychron Q-series barebones ($150-190)
  • GMMK Pro barebones ($150)
  • NK65 Entry Edition ($95)

Tier 3: Full Custom Kit (Intermediate)

What It Is: Unassembled kit, you build from scratch

Components:

  • Case
  • PCB (soldered or hot-swap)
  • Plate
  • Switches
  • Stabilizers
  • Keycaps
  • Optional: foam, gaskets, dampeners

Skills Required:

  • Assemble case
  • Install stabilizers
  • Clip, lube, tune stabilizers
  • Lube switches (optional but recommended)
  • Solder switches (if soldered PCB)
  • Flash firmware

Time: 6-15 hours Cost: $250-600+

Best For: Enthusiasts ready for full control

Tier 4: Full Custom + Advanced Mods (Expert)

Additions:

  • Hand-lubing every switch
  • Spring swapping
  • Filming switches
  • Case foam modding
  • Plate modding (flex cuts)
  • Custom firmware (QMK)

Time: 15-30 hours Cost: $300-1,000+

Best For: Hobbyists chasing perfection

Components Needed

1. Case

Materials:

  • Plastic: Affordable, lighter, hollow sound
  • Aluminum: Premium, solid, “thocky” sound
  • Brass: Heavy, deep sound, expensive
  • Acrylic: Unique aesthetic, transparent
  • Wood: Warm sound, artisanal

Mounting Styles:

  • Tray Mount: Screws into case directly (budget, firm)
  • Gasket Mount: PCB sits on gaskets (premium, softer typing)
  • Top Mount: PCB attached to top case (flex, bouncy feel)
  • Plateless: No plate (extremely flexible, niche)

Cost: $50-300 depending on material and mounting

2. PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

The brain of the keyboard. Registers keypresses.

Types:

  • Hot-Swap: Sockets for tool-less switch installation
  • Soldered: Requires soldering switches

Features to Look For:

  • QMK/VIA support (programmability)
  • RGB underglow (optional)
  • Per-key RGB (optional)
  • USB-C connection (modern standard)
  • ESD protection

Cost: $30-80

Popular PCBs:

  • DZ60 (60%, hot-swap or solder)
  • KBD67 Lite (65%, hot-swap)
  • Bakeneko65 (65%, hot-swap, affordable)

3. Plate

Sits between switches and PCB. Provides rigidity.

Materials:

  • Aluminum: Firm, “clacky” sound
  • Brass: Heavier, deeper sound
  • Polycarbonate (PC): Softer, “thocky” sound, flexible
  • FR4 (Fiberglass): Budget, neutral sound
  • Carbon Fiber: Stiff, premium

Plateless Builds: Some skip plate for maximum flex. Not recommended for beginners.

Cost: $20-60

4. Switches

See Switch Guide for full details.

Quantity Needed:

  • 60%: 61 switches
  • 65%: 68 switches
  • TKL: 87 switches
  • Full-size: 104 switches

Buy 10-20% extra for testing, mistakes, and spares.

Cost: $25-150 depending on switch choice

5. Stabilizers

Stabilize large keys (spacebar, shift, enter, backspace).

Types:

  • Screw-In: Best (attaches to PCB with screws)
  • Clip-In: Snaps into PCB (less stable)
  • Plate-Mount: Attaches to plate (budget option)

Brands:

  • Durock V2 ($15-20) - best value
  • TX Stabilizers ($25-30) - premium
  • Cherry ($10-15) - budget, requires heavy modding
  • C³ Equalz ($20-25) - smooth

Cost: $10-30 per set

6. Keycaps

See Keycaps Guide for full details.

Material:

  • PBT (recommended, durable)
  • ABS (smooth, shiny over time)

Profile:

  • Cherry (low, popular)
  • OEM (medium height)
  • SA (tall, retro)
  • KAT, MT3, etc.

Cost: $30-200 depending on material and design

7. Optional Components

Foam/Dampening:

  • Case foam ($10-20) - reduces hollow sound
  • Plate foam ($10-15) - dampens key sound
  • PCB foam ($10-15) - isolates PCB vibration

Lube & Tools:

  • Krytox 205g0 ($10-15) - switch lube
  • Krytox XHT-BDZ ($10) - stabilizer lube
  • Brushes ($5-10)
  • Switch opener ($5-10)
  • Keycap puller ($5)
  • Switch puller ($5)

Step-by-Step Build Process

Phase 1: Planning & Ordering

Step 1: Choose Layout

Step 2: Set Budget

  • Entry: $150-250
  • Mid: $250-400
  • Premium: $400-700+

Step 3: Select Components

  • Case & PCB (often sold as kit)
  • Switches
  • Keycaps
  • Stabilizers
  • Optional: foam, lube

Step 4: Order & Wait

  • Prebuilt kits: Ships immediately
  • Group buys: 6-18 months (patience!)

Phase 2: Preparation

Step 5: Gather Tools

Essential:

  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Tweezers
  • Keycap puller
  • Switch puller (if hot-swap)

Optional:

  • Soldering iron + solder (if soldered build)
  • Switch opener (if lubing)
  • Small brushes (if lubing)
  • Flush cutters (for stabilizer modding)

Step 6: Test PCB (CRITICAL!)

  1. Plug PCB into computer
  2. Use tweezers to short each switch socket
  3. Use online keyboard tester (keyboard-test.com)
  4. Confirm every key registers
  5. If any key fails, contact seller before building!

Phase 3: Stabilizer Installation

Step 7: Prepare Stabilizers

Clip Stabilizers (Recommended):

  1. Clip extra plastic feet on stabilizer housing (prevents rattle)
  2. File down any rough edges
  3. Band-Aid mod (optional): put small bandaid on PCB where stab hits (reduces rattle)

Lube Stabilizers:

  1. Disassemble stabilizer
  2. Lube wire with dielectric grease (XHT-BDZ)
  3. Lube housing with thin lube (205g0)
  4. Reassemble
  5. Wipe off excess

Why Lube Stabs? Stock stabilizers rattle and sound awful. Lubed stabs are smooth and quiet.

Step 8: Install Stabilizers

  1. Insert wire into stabilizer housing
  2. Snap or screw stabilizers into PCB
  3. Ensure wire moves freely (should return to center)
  4. Test with spacebar keycap (should feel smooth)

Phase 4: Switch Installation

Step 9: (Optional) Lube Switches

If You Want Premium Feel: See detailed lubing guide, but overview:

  1. Disassemble switch (open housing)
  2. Apply thin layer of 205g0 to stem rails, leaf, spring
  3. Reassemble
  4. Repeat x70-100 switches (3-6 hours)

Honestly?

  • Stock switches fine for first build
  • Lube later if you want (hot-swap advantage!)

Step 10: Install Switches

Hot-Swap:

  1. Align switch pins with PCB socket
  2. Press firmly until seated
  3. Ensure no bent pins!
  4. Repeat for all switches

Soldered:

  1. Insert switch into plate + PCB
  2. Flip board over
  3. Solder each pin (quick 1-2 second contact)
  4. Check for cold solder joints
  5. Repeat for all switches

Step 11: Test Switches

  1. Plug in keyboard
  2. Use keyboard tester website
  3. Press every single key
  4. Fix any non-registering keys NOW

Phase 5: Assembly

Step 12: Assemble Case

  1. Insert switch/plate/PCB assembly into case
  2. Screw case together (don’t overtighten!)
  3. For gasket mount: ensure gaskets seated properly

Step 13: Install Keycaps

  1. Start with spacebar (largest key, confirms stab works)
  2. Install modifier keys (Shift, Enter, Backspace)
  3. Install alphanumeric keys
  4. Double-check orientation (legends facing you!)

Phase 6: Programming & Testing

Step 14: Flash Firmware (If Needed)

QMK/VIA Keyboards:

  1. Download VIA software (easiest) or QMK Toolbox
  2. Connect keyboard
  3. Load keymap or create custom layout
  4. Flash to keyboard

What You Can Customize:

  • Key remapping (put Caps Lock wherever you want!)
  • Layers (Fn key behaviors)
  • Macros (complex key combos)
  • RGB lighting (if supported)

Step 15: Final Testing

  1. Type test on keyboard tester
  2. Test every key
  3. Test all layers (Fn combos)
  4. Test stabilized keys (smooth? rattle?)

Step 16: Enjoy! You built a keyboard! Take a photo. Share with r/MechanicalKeyboards. Type on it!

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Switch Doesn’t Register

Possible Causes:

  1. Bent pin on switch
  2. Switch not fully seated (hot-swap)
  3. Bad solder joint (soldered)
  4. Dead PCB socket

Fixes:

  1. Remove switch, straighten pin, reinstall
  2. Press harder until click (hot-swap)
  3. Re-solder joint (soldered)
  4. Replace PCB socket (advanced) or use different socket

Stabilizer Rattle

Causes:

  1. Not lubed
  2. Poorly assembled
  3. Loose fit

Fixes:

  1. Remove stabilizer, lube properly
  2. Ensure wire seated correctly in housing
  3. Band-aid mod under stabilizer
  4. Try different stabilizers (Durock > Cherry stock)

Keys Don’t Work in Certain Positions

Causes:

  1. PCB column/row failure
  2. Firmware issue

Fixes:

  1. Test PCB before building (catch this early!)
  2. Reflash firmware
  3. Contact manufacturer (warranty claim)

Spacebar Sounds Awful

Causes: Stabilizer rattle (most common issue!)

Fixes:

  1. Remove spacebar
  2. Remove stabilizer
  3. Lube wire and housing properly
  4. Reinstall
  5. Consider holee mod (bandaid + lube technique)

Build Cost Breakdown

Budget Build ($150-250)

  • Case/PCB Kit: Keychron V2 barebones ($80)
  • Switches: Gateron Yellow x70 ($20)
  • Keycaps: Budget PBT set ($30)
  • Stabilizers: Durock V2 ($15)
  • Lube/Tools: $20
  • Total: ~$165

Mid-Range Build ($300-450)

  • Case/PCB Kit: Keychron Q2 ($170)
  • Switches: Boba U4T x70 ($45)
  • Keycaps: GMK Clone or quality PBT ($60)
  • Stabilizers: TX Stabs ($25)
  • Foam: $25
  • Lube/Tools: $30
  • Total: ~$355

Premium Build ($600-1,000)

  • Case/PCB Kit: Mode Sonnet ($300)
  • Switches: Holy Panda x70 ($70)
  • Keycaps: GMK set ($120)
  • Stabilizers: C³ Equalz ($25)
  • Foam/Dampening: $40
  • Lube/Tools/Extras: $50
  • Total: ~$605

Time Investment

First Build (Hot-Swap, No Lube):

  • Research & ordering: 5-10 hours
  • Assembly: 2-3 hours
  • Testing & tweaking: 1 hour
  • Total: ~8-14 hours

First Build (Soldered, Lubed):

  • Research & ordering: 5-10 hours
  • Lubing switches: 4-6 hours
  • Soldering: 2-4 hours
  • Assembly & testing: 2 hours
  • Total: ~13-22 hours

Subsequent Builds: Much faster! 2-6 hours depending on complexity.

Should You Build or Buy Prebuilt?

Build Custom If:

✅ You want specific switches unavailable in prebuilts ✅ You enjoy building/tinkering ✅ You want ultimate customization ✅ You’re willing to invest time ✅ Budget allows $200+

Buy Prebuilt If:

✅ First mechanical keyboard ✅ Need keyboard immediately ✅ Don’t want to research/build ✅ Budget under $150 ✅ Want warranty and support

Hybrid Approach (BEST for Most):

  1. Buy hot-swap prebuilt (Keychron, GMMK)
  2. Use stock for 1-3 months
  3. Experiment with switch swaps
  4. Upgrade keycaps
  5. Mod stabilizers
  6. Build full custom when ready

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Mistake #1: Not Testing PCB First

→ Always test PCB before assembly! Catch defects early.

Mistake #2: Bending Switch Pins

→ Align carefully, don’t force. Straighten bent pins gently.

Mistake #3: Over-Lubing

→ Less is more. Thin, even coat. Excess lube = sluggish keys.

Mistake #4: Overtightening Screws

→ Snug, not tight. Overtightening cracks PCBs and cases.

Mistake #5: Skipping Stabilizer Lube

→ Stock stabs sound awful. Lube them! Huge difference.

Mistake #6: Buying Group Buy as First Build

→ 6-12 month wait. Buy in-stock kit for first build.

Resources

Communities:

  • r/MechanicalKeyboards (Reddit)
  • GeekHack forums
  • Discord servers (MechKeys, Keebstuff)

Shops:

  • KBDfans (China)
  • CannonKeys (USA)
  • Divinikey (USA)
  • Keychron (Direct)
  • Novelkeys (USA)

YouTube Channels:

  • TaeKeyboards (builds, reviews)
  • Alexotos (sound tests, builds)
  • Taeha Types (premium builds)
  • Keybored (beginner-friendly)

Final Thoughts

Building a keyboard is:

  • Rewarding (you made this!)
  • Educational (learn how things work)
  • Expensive (but worth it)
  • Addictive (you’ll build more!)

Don’t overthink your first build. You’ll learn more from building imperfectly than researching forever.

The best keyboard is the one you build and use. Have fun!

Next Steps