Keyboard Case Materials Guide

The case is the body of a keyboard. It holds the build together, sets the weight on your desk, and behaves like the main resonator for every keypress. Material doesn’t decide everything—mounting style, plate, switches, stabilizers, keycaps, and foam can dramatically change the outcome—but it does set the baseline: how dense the sound feels, how much resonance you’ll have to tame, and whether the board feels like a tool, a toy, or a piece of furniture.

If you’re picking a first “serious” board, it helps to think of materials as personalities rather than rankings. There isn’t a “best” material—there’s a best fit for your space, your ears, and how you like a keyboard to feel under your hands.

Case Material Comparison (At a Glance)

Use this table as a map, not a verdict. Two aluminum boards can sound wildly different depending on mount, plate, and dampening—but material still nudges the build in predictable directions.

How to Choose (A Practical Approach)

Before you get lost in material lore, answer three questions:

1. Where will you use it? If you share a space or record audio, you’ll care more about controlled resonance than “maximum character.”
2. Do you want it to move? If you travel, light materials matter. If the board never leaves your desk, weight becomes a feature.
3. What are you tuning for: sound, feel, or looks? You can usually tune sound with foam, plates, keycaps, and switches—but you can’t tune an ultra-heavy case into being portable.

When you’re torn, aluminum is the safest all-around choice, plastic is the best value, and polycarbonate/wood are the “distinct personality” picks.

Aluminum Cases

Aluminum is the modern default for “premium” keyboards because it balances durability, stability, and tunability. Most cases are 6061 or 6063 alloy and are either CNC-machined or cast.

What it tends to sound like

Aluminum often reads dense and controlled compared to budget plastics, and it makes it easier to chase deeper profiles like thock or creamy. Some aluminum cases can ring, especially if the internal geometry creates a resonant cavity—so selective dampening (case foam, a weight, or a different plate) is a common part of aluminum builds.

What it tends to feel like

Aluminum boards feel stable and “one piece.” Even without fancy mounting, many people perceive aluminum as more consistent and solid because the case doesn’t flex much and the board doesn’t slide.

Finishes you’ll see

• Anodized: durable, common, and generally the best everyday finish.
• Sandblasted: matte texture that often hides fingerprints well.
• Polished: striking, but shows fingerprints and fine scratches quickly.
• E-coated: more color options, but coatings can chip if impacted.

Best for

Aluminum is ideal if you want a board that feels substantial, looks professional, and can be tuned in many directions—especially for office or “one keyboard that does it all” setups.

Plastic Cases (ABS/Polystyrene)

Plastic cases are how most people meet mechanical keyboards: light, affordable, and widely available. “Plastic” covers a huge range—from thin, hollow shells to surprisingly solid housings—so build quality matters as much as the material.

What it tends to sound like

Plastic often sounds lighter and higher-pitched than aluminum. The most common issue is hollowness: a large empty cavity can act like a little speaker box. The good news is that plastic responds extremely well to basic tuning: a desk mat, a bit of case foam, and tuned stabilizers can transform the sound.

What it tends to feel like

Plastic can feel soft or flexy if the case is thin. That can be pleasant (less harshness) or cheap-feeling, depending on execution. For portability, plastic is hard to beat.

Best for

Plastic is a great choice for budget boards, travel boards, and anyone who wants to experiment without paying “enthusiast tax.”

Polycarbonate (PC) Cases

Polycarbonate sits in a fun middle ground: it’s technically plastic, but it has an enthusiast reputation because it can deliver a clean, lively sound and a distinctive aesthetic (clear, frosted, tinted).

What it tends to sound like

PC often reads bright, clear, and poppy—especially when paired with PE foam and a plate that keeps energy in the system. Some people describe PC as “marbly” or “crystalline” because the attack is clean and the resonance is noticeable. If you dislike upper frequencies, PC can feel “plasticky” rather than premium, so it’s worth listening to a few builds before committing.

What it tends to feel like

PC can introduce a little flex and a softer impact compared to metal. Many people like that bouncy feel, especially on gasket-mount boards.

Best for

Choose PC if you want a modern, energetic sound profile, you like the look of translucent cases, or you’re building an RGB showcase.

Brass (Full Cases and Weights)

Brass is density. It’s one of the heaviest common keyboard materials, and it changes how a board sits and speaks: stable on the desk, substantial in the hands, and often more resonant and “authoritative” in tone.

Brass as a full case

A full brass case is usually a collector-tier decision. It’s extremely heavy, expensive, and desk-only for most people—but it can sound uniquely rich when the rest of the build supports it.

Brass as a weight (the common approach)

Many boards use brass as an internal weight insert rather than a full case. This is often the best bang-for-buck way to add stability and density: the board feels more planted, and the tone can deepen without forcing you into an all-brass exterior.

Best for

• Desk-only builds where stability matters
• Enthusiasts chasing unique tone and “mass”
• People who want the feel of premium more than portability

Wood Cases

Wood cases feel like furniture. They bring warmth—visually and acoustically—and many people love the way wood naturally softens harsh edges in sound.

What it tends to sound like

Wood is often described as warm, muted, and organic. It can reduce metallic ringing and make a board feel less “sharp.” Because wood is an organic material, there’s also more variation: species, construction, and finish all influence the result.

What it tends to feel like

Wood is warm to the touch and tends to feel comfortable. The tradeoff is maintenance: humidity and finish care matter more than they do with metal.

Best for

Wood is a great fit if you want a cozy, aesthetic-forward board that blends with a desk setup and you don’t mind occasional care.

Acrylic Cases

Acrylic cases are famous for stacked-layer builds and DIY accessibility. They can look fantastic—especially with RGB—but they’re less durable than most other options.

What it tends to sound like

Acrylic often reads bright and can sound hollow if the case is mostly empty space. Like other plastics, acrylic can improve dramatically with foam and careful assembly.

What it tends to feel like

Stacked acrylic can feel flexy depending on thickness and hardware. It also scratches more easily, and it can crack if dropped.

Best for

Acrylic is ideal for DIY builds, experiments, and aesthetic-first boards where you want to see the internals.

Exotic and Rare Materials (Quick Notes)

These show up in small runs and one-off builds. They’re usually bought for aesthetics and novelty rather than practical value.

• Carbon fiber: light and strong, often deep/muted; rare as a full case but common as a plate.
• Copper: dense and warm, develops patina; mostly collector territory.
• Stone/marble: extremely heavy and “dead” sounding; typically artisanal showpieces.
• 3D-printed (PLA/resin): highly variable; great for prototyping and DIY, often needs tuning to avoid hollowness.

Thickness and Construction (Why Two “Aluminum” Boards Don’t Sound the Same)

Material is the headline, but construction is the plot.

Thin cases

Thin walls tend to emphasize resonance and reduce perceived density. That can be lively, but it’s also where hollowness and “tinny” overtones show up most.

Thick cases

Thicker walls add mass and can help control resonance, often making it easier to land on deeper, more “premium” profiles. This is a big part of why some aluminum customs feel dramatically more substantial than others.

Internal geometry matters

Large, undamped cavities ring. Bracing, weights, and internal shapes can break up resonant spaces. This is why two keyboards made of the same material can sound completely different.

Mounting Style and Material Interaction (Simple Heuristics)

Mounting often matters more than material for perceived harshness.

• Gasket/softer mounts tend to reduce harshness and make deeper profiles easier (great with aluminum and PC).
• Top mount/firm mounts emphasize clarity and contact sounds (often paired with aluminum when you want crispness).
• Tray mount varies widely; it can sound harsh without tuning, so stabilizers and foam usually do more work here.

Takeaway

If you want a reliable default, choose aluminum: durable, stable, and easy to tune toward most sound profiles. If you want maximum value and portability, plastic is absolutely fine—just budget time for basic tuning. If you want a distinct personality, polycarbonate and wood are the “character materials,” and brass weights are the easiest way to add stability and density without committing to an all-brass case.

Next Steps

• Sound Profiles Guide - Hear how material choices shape tone
• Building Guide - Plan a build that fits your space and taste
• Modding Guide - Tune sound and feel without changing the case