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Complete Keyboard Modding Guide: Lubing, Filming, Tuning

10 min read

Complete Keyboard Modding Guide

Keyboard modding transforms a stock keyboard into a personalized, premium typing experience. This guide covers everything from beginner-friendly mods to advanced techniques.

Why Mod Your Keyboard?

Sound Improvement

Stock keyboards often sound:

  • Pingy (spring noise)
  • Rattly (stabilizer rattle)
  • Hollow (empty case)
  • Scratchy (unlubed switches)

Modded keyboards sound:

  • Thocky or clacky (depending on preference)
  • Smooth and quiet
  • Full-bodied
  • Satisfying

Feel Improvement

Stock switches:

  • Scratchier
  • Inconsistent
  • Spring ping
  • Wobble

Modded switches:

  • Buttery smooth
  • Consistent across all keys
  • Reduced wobble
  • No spring ping

Is Modding Necessary?

No. Stock keyboards work perfectly fine. Modding is for:

  • Enthusiasts chasing perfection
  • Those who enjoy tinkering
  • Users wanting specific sound/feel
  • Hobby aspect of keyboards

Diminishing returns: First mods (lube, stabilizers) = 70% improvement Advanced mods (films, foam) = 20% improvement Extreme mods = 10% improvement

Modding Difficulty Tiers

Beginner (No Disassembly)

  • Case foam
  • Desk mat
  • Keycap swapping
  • Switch pads (between PCB and switches)

Intermediate (Some Disassembly)

  • Stabilizer tuning
  • Plate foam
  • PCB foam
  • Tape mod

Advanced (Switch Disassembly)

  • Switch lubing
  • Switch filming
  • Spring swapping
  • Frankenswitches

Expert (Soldering/Permanent)

  • Modding soldered boards
  • PCB modifications
  • Custom mounting systems
  • Gasket modding

Essential Modding Tools

Basic Kit ($30-50)

Required:

  • Switch opener ($5-10) - Opens switches easily
  • Small brush (size 00 or 000) - Applies lube ($3-5)
  • Keycap puller ($5) - Removes keycaps
  • Switch puller ($5) - Removes hot-swap switches
  • Tweezers ($5) - Handles small parts

Lubricant:

  • Krytox 205g0 ($15-20 for 5ml) - Linear switches, stabilizers
  • Tribosys 3203 ($15-20 for 5ml) - Tactile switches

Intermediate Kit ($70-100)

Everything above, plus:

  • Switch films ($0.03-0.10 per switch)
  • Stabilizer pads ($10)
  • Dielectric grease ($8) - Stabilizer wires
  • Case foam or sorbothane ($10-30)
  • Electrical tape (for tape mod)

Advanced Kit ($150+)

Everything above, plus:

  • Replacement springs (various weights)
  • TX switch films (premium)
  • Deskeys stabilizer films
  • PE foam sheets
  • Tempest tape mod tape
  • Precision screwdrivers

Switch Lubing (Advanced)

What Is Switch Lubing?

Applying lubricant to switch components to reduce friction and noise.

Time Investment:

  • 70 switches: 2-4 hours (first time: 4-6 hours)
  • 104 switches: 3-6 hours

Difficulty: Advanced (requires patience and precision)

Choosing Lubricant

For Linear Switches:

  • Krytox 205g0: Thick, smooth, industry standard
  • Tribosys 3204: Thicker than 205g0
  • Krytox GPL 105: Springs only (thin oil)

For Tactile Switches:

  • Tribosys 3203: Thinner, preserves tactile bump
  • Krytox 203g0: Alternative to 3203

For Clicky Switches:

  • Don’t lube clicky switches! Lube kills the click mechanism. Only lube springs if absolutely necessary.

For Springs:

  • Krytox GPL 105: Thin oil, reduces spring ping
  • Krytox 205g0: Works but slightly thicker

Where to Buy:

  • NovelKeys, Divinikey, 1upkeyboards, AliExpress

Lubing Technique: Linear Switches

Step 1: Disassemble Switch

  1. Use switch opener to open top housing
  2. Remove stem carefully
  3. Remove spring
  4. Keep bottom housing on workspace

Step 2: Lube Bottom Housing

  1. Apply tiny amount of 205g0 to brush
  2. Thin, even coat on rails where stem slides
  3. Coat center post lightly
  4. DO NOT over-lube (less is more!)

Step 3: Lube Stem

  1. Hold stem by stem legs (don’t touch lubed areas)
  2. Coat all four sides evenly
  3. Coat bottom of stem (where spring sits)
  4. Avoid stem legs (where stem enters housing)

Step 4: Lube Spring (Optional)

  1. Bag lube method: Put 20-30 springs in ziplock bag with small amount of GPL 105, shake vigorously
  2. Donut dip: Dip one end of spring into GPL 105, let it flow down
  3. Brush: Brush GPL 105 onto spring (time-consuming)

Step 5: Reassemble

  1. Place spring back in bottom housing
  2. Insert stem carefully (align properly!)
  3. Place top housing and press until click
  4. Test switch (should feel smooth, not mushy)

Common Mistakes:

  • Over-lubing: Mushy feel, sluggish return
  • Lubing stem legs: Can reduce travel, cause binding
  • Uneven application: Inconsistent feel across keyboard
  • Touching lubed surfaces: Oils from skin reduce lube effectiveness

Lubing Technique: Tactile Switches

Key Difference: Avoid lubing the tactile legs/bump area, or you’ll reduce tactility.

Modified Technique:

  1. Lube bottom housing (same as linear)
  2. Lube stem sides and bottom
  3. AVOID the tactile bump legs on stem sides
  4. Lube springs (same as linear)

Result: Smooth travel with preserved tactile bump.

Is Lubing Worth It?

Pros:

  • Significant smoothness improvement (especially budget switches)
  • Eliminates scratchiness
  • Quieter switches
  • Reduces spring ping

Cons:

  • Time-consuming (2-6 hours)
  • Requires patience and technique
  • Can ruin switches if done poorly (over-lubing)
  • Not reversible easily

Verdict: Worth it for enthusiasts and those building custom keyboards. Not necessary for casual users.

Switch Filming (Intermediate)

What Is Switch Filming?

Adding thin plastic films between top and bottom housing to reduce wobble and improve sound.

Time Investment:

  • 70 switches: 1-2 hours
  • 104 switches: 2-3 hours

Cost:

  • $0.03-0.10 per switch ($3-10 per keyboard)

When to Film Switches

Film these switches:

  • Gateron switches (wobbly housings)
  • Kailh switches
  • Budget switches with housing wobble
  • Switches with inconsistent sound

Don’t film these switches:

  • Cherry MX (tight tolerances already)
  • Premium switches (Zeal, already tight)
  • Switches without housing wobble

How to Check: Press down on switch stem and wiggle. If housing separates or wobbles noticeably, film it.

Filming Technique

Step 1: Disassemble Switch Same as lubing - open top housing, remove stem and spring.

Step 2: Apply Film

  1. Place film on bottom housing
  2. Ensure film aligns with housing edges
  3. Film should have cutout for center post

Step 3: Reassemble

  1. Place spring and stem back
  2. Press top housing down firmly (film adds resistance)
  3. Ensure housing clicks shut completely

Step 4: Test Switch should feel tighter, less wobbly, and sound more consistent.

Film Types

Standard Films (Deskeys, TX, Kelowna):

  • Thickness: 0.125mm - 0.15mm
  • Material: Polycarbonate or PET
  • Cost: $0.03-0.05 per film

Premium Films (TX Switch Films):

  • Thickness: 0.125mm - 0.15mm
  • Material: High-quality PC
  • Better consistency
  • Cost: $0.08-0.10 per film

Verdict: Budget films work fine for most users. Premium films offer marginal improvements.

Stabilizer Tuning (Essential Mod)

What Are Stabilizers?

Stabilizers support larger keys (Spacebar, Shift, Enter, Backspace) to prevent wobble.

Problem: Stock stabilizers rattle, tick, and sound terrible.

Solution: Tuning stabilizers fixes rattle and creates smooth, quiet keypresses.

Stabilizer Types

Plate-Mount (Cheap, Common):

  • Clip into plate
  • Less stable
  • Harder to tune
  • Budget keyboards

PCB Screw-In (Premium):

  • Screw into PCB
  • More stable
  • Easier to tune
  • Custom keyboards

PCB Snap-In:

  • Clip into PCB (no screws)
  • Mid-tier stability
  • Moderate tuning difficulty

Stabilizer Tuning Steps

Step 1: Disassemble Stabilizer

  1. Remove keycaps from stabilized keys
  2. Remove switches around stabilizers (if hot-swap)
  3. Unscrew stabilizers from PCB (screw-in) or unclip

Step 2: Clean Stabilizer

  1. Disassemble stabilizer housing and wire
  2. Wipe away factory lube (it’s usually bad)
  3. Clean with isopropyl alcohol if greasy

Step 3: Lube Stabilizer Housing

  1. Apply Krytox 205g0 to stabilizer housing:
    • Inside walls where stem slides
    • Bottom where stem bottoms out
  2. Thin, even coat (not too much!)

Step 4: Lube Stabilizer Wire

  1. Apply dielectric grease (thick) or 205g0 to wire ends
  2. Focus on where wire contacts housing
  3. This eliminates rattle and ticking

Step 5: Band-Aid Mod (Optional)

  1. Place small fabric band-aid on PCB where stabilizer bottoms out
  2. Apply thin layer of 205g0 on top of band-aid
  3. Reduces impact noise

Step 6: Holee Mod (Advanced)

  1. Cut small pieces of fabric band-aid
  2. Place inside stabilizer stem holes (where wire inserts)
  3. Eliminates wire rattle

Step 7: Reassemble and Test

  1. Insert wire into housing
  2. Screw or clip stabilizers back onto PCB
  3. Test by pressing stabilized keys (should be smooth, no rattle)

Stabilizer Tuning Tips

Balance Wire Properly: Stabilizer wire must be balanced (equal on both sides). If uneven, spacebar will be lopsided.

Don’t Over-Lube: Too much lube = mushy, sticky feel. Thin layers!

Test Before Reassembly: Test stabilizers before installing all switches. Easier to fix issues early.

Upgrade Stabilizers: If stock stabilizers are terrible, consider:

  • Durock V2 stabilizers ($15-20)
  • TX stabilizers ($20-25)
  • Staebies ($25-30)

Case Dampening (Beginner-Intermediate)

What Is Case Dampening?

Adding foam or dampening material inside the keyboard case to reduce hollow sounds.

Time Investment: 30 minutes - 1 hour Cost: $10-30

Types of Foam

Case Foam (Bottom of Case):

  • Reduces hollow, empty sound
  • Adds weight
  • Softens bottom-out
  • Easy to install

Plate Foam (Between Plate and PCB):

  • Deepens sound
  • Reduces vibration
  • Slightly mushier feel

PCB Foam (Under PCB):

  • Absorbs case resonance
  • Dampens typing sounds

PE Foam (Between PCB and Switches):

  • Creates “poppy” sound signature (love it or hate it)
  • Reduces scratchiness sound

Installation

Step 1: Measure Case Interior Measure internal dimensions of case.

Step 2: Cut Foam to Size

  • Use neoprene, sorbothane, EVA foam, or PE foam
  • Thickness: 2mm-5mm
  • Cut to fit case (avoid screw holes and ports)

Step 3: Install Foam

  • Place foam in case bottom
  • Ensure it doesn’t interfere with PCB or screws
  • Reassemble keyboard

Step 4: Test Sound should be deeper, less hollow.

Foam Alternatives

Shelf Liner:

  • Cheap ($5)
  • Widely available (Home Depot, Amazon)
  • Works decently

Sorbothane:

  • Excellent dampening
  • Expensive ($20-40)
  • Heavier

Neoprene:

  • Good dampening
  • Moderate cost ($10-15)

Tempest Tape Mod (Beginner)

What Is the Tape Mod?

Applying painter’s tape or masking tape to the back of the PCB to change sound signature.

Effect:

  • Deeper, “poppier” sound
  • Reduces hollowness
  • Adds rigidity to PCB

Time: 15-30 minutes Cost: $3 (tape)

How to Tape Mod

Step 1: Remove PCB from Keyboard Disassemble keyboard, remove PCB.

Step 2: Apply Tape to PCB Back

  1. Use 2-4 layers of painter’s tape or masking tape
  2. Cover entire back of PCB
  3. Avoid USB port area
  4. Ensure tape is smooth (no bubbles)

Step 3: Reassemble Keyboard Install PCB back into case and test.

Result: Sound signature changes from hollow to fuller, “marble” or “poppy” sound.

Tape Mod Controversy

Some love it: Adds fullness and depth Some hate it: Sounds artificial, too “poppy”

Try it yourself. Tape is easily removable if you don’t like it.

Force Break Mod (Intermediate)

What Is Force Break Mod?

Modifying plate to add flex, creating a softer, more forgiving typing experience.

How It Works: Cut slits in the plate between switch cutouts, allowing plate to flex more.

Effect:

  • Softer typing feel
  • More “bounce”
  • Reduced harshness

Difficulty: Requires Dremel or cutting tool Risk: Permanent modification, can weaken plate

Spring Swapping (Intermediate)

Why Swap Springs?

Change actuation force, eliminate spring ping, or use progressive springs.

Common Swaps:

  • Stock 55g → 62g (heavier)
  • Stock 45g → 50g (slightly heavier)
  • Stock spring → slow curve spring (progressive resistance)
  • Stock spring → TX or Spirit springs (less ping)

Cost:

  • $0.10-0.25 per spring
  • $7-18 per keyboard

Spring Types

Standard Springs:

  • Consistent force throughout travel
  • Stock springs in most switches

Progressive (Slow Curve) Springs:

  • Lighter at top, heavier at bottom
  • More natural typing feel

Long Springs:

  • Longer than standard
  • Less spring ping
  • Slightly different feel

TX Springs:

  • High-quality steel
  • Minimal ping
  • Expensive ($0.20-0.30 per spring)

Spring Swap Process

  1. Disassemble switches
  2. Remove stock springs
  3. Insert new springs
  4. Reassemble switches
  5. Test feel

Combine with lubing: If you’re already disassembling switches to lube, spring swapping adds minimal time.

Frankenswitches (Advanced)

What Are Frankenswitches?

Combining parts from different switches to create custom switches.

Famous Frankenswitches:

  • Holy Panda: Halo True stem + Invyr Panda housing
  • Creamsicles: Cream stem + Tangerine housing
  • Zealios: Various stems in Zeal housings

Purpose:

  • Create unique sound/feel
  • Optimize switch characteristics
  • Experiment with combinations

What Are O-Rings?

Rubber rings placed on keycap stems to reduce bottom-out noise and travel.

Pros:

  • Cheap ($5-10)
  • Easy to install
  • Quieter bottom-out

Cons:

  • Mushy feel
  • Reduced travel
  • Worse typing experience

Verdict: O-rings are a band-aid solution. Better to lube switches and tune stabilizers than use O-rings.

First Keyboard Mod (Beginner)

  1. Stabilizer tuning (biggest impact)
  2. Case foam (if hollow sounding)

Second Round (Intermediate)

  1. Tape mod (if desired)
  2. Switch lubing (time commitment)

Advanced Mods

  1. Switch filming
  2. Spring swapping
  3. Plate foam / PCB foam

Takeaway

Essential mods:

  • Stabilizer tuning (always worth it)
  • Case foam (if case sounds hollow)

High-impact mods:

  • Switch lubing (time-consuming but transformative)
  • Switch filming (if switches are wobbly)

Experimental mods:

  • Tape mod (try it, it’s reversible)
  • Spring swapping (if you want different weight)

Skip:

  • O-rings (mushy feel)
  • Over-engineering (diminishing returns)

Modding is personal. Not every mod works for every person. Experiment, and keep what you like.

Next Steps