Watch Brand Guide

The watch industry has hundreds of brands across wildly different price points and quality levels. This guide breaks down brands by tier, helping you understand what you’re paying for and where the best value lies.

Understanding Brand Tiers

What Determines a Tier:

Manufacturing capabilities (in-house movements vs. generic)
Finishing quality and attention to detail
Brand heritage and prestige
Resale value and market demand
Price positioning
Exclusivity and production volume

Tier 1: Entry Level ($100-$500)

What You Get: Introduction to mechanical watches, decent quality, minimal finishing, often generic movements

Seiko (Japan) 🌟 Best Value Tier 1

Price Range: $100-$1,000 Known For: Incredible value, reliable movements, dive watches Movements: In-house (7S26, 4R35, 6R35) Best Models:

Seiko 5 Sport ($100-250) - automatic beater
Seiko Alpinist SPB121 ($600) - field watch icon
Seiko SKX007 ($200) - dive watch legend (discontinued, buy used)

Why They’re Great: Seiko offers in-house movements at prices where others use generic calibers. Unbeatable value.

Orient (Japan)

Price Range: $100-$500 Known For: In-house movements at entry prices Movements: Orient calibers (F6922, F6724) Best Models:

Orient Bambino ($150-250) - dress watch
Orient Kamasu ($250-300) - dive watch
Orient Mako II ($150) - affordable automatic

Why They’re Great: All watches have in-house movements. Dress watches rival $1,000 competitors.

Citizen (Japan)

Price Range: $150-$800 Known For: Eco-Drive solar technology Movements: Eco-Drive (solar quartz) Best Models:

Citizen Eco-Drive Promaster ($250-400)
Citizen Corso ($200-300)
Citizen Nighthawk ($300)

Why They’re Great: Never replace a battery again. Solar technology is proven and reliable.

Timex (USA)

Price Range: $50-$300 Known For: “Takes a licking and keeps on ticking” Movements: Quartz, some mechanical Best Models:

Timex Weekender ($40)
Timex Marlin ($200) - hand-wound reissue
Timex Expedition ($50-100)

Why They’re Great: Nostalgic designs, affordable, easy to find.

Casio (Japan)

Price Range: $20-$500 Known For: G-Shock durability, digital watches Movements: Quartz, ana-digi Best Models:

Casio G-Shock DW5600 ($50)
Casio F-91W ($15) - iconic
Casio Duro MDV106 ($50) - dive watch bargain

Why They’re Great: Indestructible, perfect beaters, incredible value.

Tier 2: Enthusiast ($500-$2,000)

What You Get: Swiss or Japanese quality, better finishing, reliable movements, some in-house options

Hamilton (Switzerland/USA Heritage) 🌟 Best Value Tier 2

Price Range: $400-$1,500 Known For: Military heritage, vintage-inspired, Swiss quality Movements: ETA/Swatch Group calibers, some H-10 (80hr) Best Models:

Hamilton Khaki Field Auto ($450-600) - perfect everyday watch
Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba ($550-700) - dive watch
Hamilton Intra-Matic ($800-1,200) - vintage chronograph

Why They’re Great: Swiss watchmaking at accessible prices. 80-hour power reserve in modern models.

Tissot (Switzerland)

Price Range: $300-$1,500 Known For: Swiss entry point, diverse collection Movements: ETA-based (Powermatic 80) Best Models:

Tissot PRX ($350-650) - integrated bracelet, huge value
Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 ($650) - dress watch
Tissot Seastar 1000 ($400-600) - dive watch

Why They’re Great: Lowest-priced Swiss brand with genuine quality.

Longines (Switzerland)

Price Range: $1,000-$3,000 Known For: Elegant designs, aviation heritage Movements: ETA-based with modifications Best Models:

Longines Master Collection ($1,500-2,500)
Longines Legend Diver ($2,000-2,500)
Longines HydroConquest ($1,200-1,800)

Why They’re Great: True Swiss luxury aesthetics at mid-tier prices.

Oris (Switzerland)

Price Range: $1,500-$4,000 Known For: Independent Swiss, dive watches Movements: Sellita-based, some in-house Best Models:

Oris Aquis Date ($1,800-2,200)
Oris Divers Sixty-Five ($1,800-2,400)
Oris Big Crown Pointer Date ($1,800)

Why They’re Great: Independent brand, excellent quality-to-price ratio, strong design identity.

Seiko Presage / Prospex (Japan)

Price Range: $400-$1,500 Known For: Refined finishing, diverse styles Movements: 4R35, 6R35, some Spring Drive Best Models:

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time ($400-500)
Seiko Prospex “Captain Willard” ($700-800)
Seiko Presage Enamel Dial ($800-1,200)

Why They’re Great: Japanese craftsmanship, unique dial finishes (enamel, urushi lacquer).

Tier 3: Luxury ($2,000-$10,000)

What You Get: In-house movements, exceptional finishing, brand prestige, investment potential

Tudor (Switzerland) 🌟 Best Value Tier 3

Price Range: $2,500-$5,500 Known For: Rolex’s sister brand, in-house movements Movements: MT5602, MT5612 (COSC, 70hr reserve) Best Models:

Tudor Black Bay 58 ($3,700) - nearly perfect watch
Tudor Pelagos ($4,200) - titanium dive watch
Tudor Black Bay GMT ($3,800)

Why They’re Great: Rolex quality at 60% of the price. In-house movements with silicon hairspring.

Omega (Switzerland)

Price Range: $4,000-$10,000+ Known For: Moonwatch, Bond, Co-Axial escapement Movements: In-house Co-Axial (8800, 8900), METAS certified Best Models:

Omega Speedmaster Professional ($6,500) - moon watch
Omega Seamaster 300M ($5,400-6,000) - dive watch icon
Omega Aqua Terra ($5,500-7,500) - versatile everyday

Why They’re Great: True manufacture, anti-magnetic, chronometer certified. Better value than Rolex.

Grand Seiko (Japan)

Price Range: $2,500-$10,000+ Known For: Japanese perfection, Zaratsu polishing, Spring Drive Movements: 9S (mechanical), 9F (quartz), 9R (Spring Drive) Best Models:

Grand Seiko SBGA211 “Snowflake” ($5,800) - Spring Drive
Grand Seiko SBGM221 GMT ($4,500)
Grand Seiko SBGR251 ($3,800) - automatic

Why They’re Great: Finishing rivals Rolex at lower prices. Spring Drive is unique technology. Best dials in the industry.

IWC (Switzerland)

Price Range: $4,500-$15,000+ Known For: Pilot watches, engineering Movements: In-house, some long power reserves Best Models:

IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX ($5,000)
IWC Portugieser ($12,000+)
IWC Aquatimer ($6,000-9,000)

Why They’re Great: German engineering precision, aviation heritage, legible designs.

Jaeger-LeCoultre (Switzerland)

Price Range: $5,000-$20,000+ Known For: Manufacture excellence, complications Movements: 1,200+ calibers created since 1833 Best Models:

JLC Master Ultra Thin ($6,500-9,000)
JLC Reverso ($6,500-15,000)
JLC Master Control ($7,500-10,000)

Why They’re Great: True watchmaker’s watch. Exceptional value for manufacture complications.

Cartier (France)

Price Range: $3,000-$30,000+ Known For: Jewelry heritage, iconic designs Movements: In-house (1847 MC) and quartz Best Models:

Cartier Tank ($2,800-8,000)
Cartier Santos ($7,000-10,000)
Cartier Panthère ($4,000-6,500)

Why They’re Great: Design icons, jewelry-grade finishing, versatile luxury.

Breitling (Switzerland)

Price Range: $4,000-$10,000+ Known For: Aviation, chronographs Movements: In-house B01, COSC certified Best Models:

Breitling Navitimer ($7,500-9,000)
Breitling Superocean ($4,500-6,000)
Breitling Premier ($4,500-6,500)

Why They’re Great: In-house chronograph movement (B01), aviation heritage.

Tier 4: High Luxury ($10,000-$50,000)

What You Get: Ultimate finishing, exclusivity, waiting lists, strong resale

Rolex (Switzerland)

Price Range: $6,000-$40,000+ (retail) Known For: Crown logo, status, investment, waiting lists Movements: In-house (3230, 3235), Superlative Chronometer Best Models:

Rolex Submariner ($9,100-10,000) - if you can find one
Rolex Explorer ($7,000)
Rolex Datejust ($7,500-10,000)
Rolex GMT-Master II ($10,000+)

Why They’re Great: Best resale value in industry, impeccable reliability, iconic designs. But: waiting lists, inflated gray market prices.

Reality Check: Many Rolex models sell above retail on gray market due to artificial scarcity. Consider Omega, Tudor, or Grand Seiko instead unless you specifically want the crown.

Audemars Piguet (Switzerland)

Price Range: $20,000-$100,000+ Known For: Royal Oak, octagonal bezel Movements: In-house, ultra-thin Best Models:

Royal Oak 15500 ($30,000+)
Royal Oak Offshore ($25,000+)

Why They’re Great: Design icon, haute horlogerie finishing, exclusivity.

Blancpain (Switzerland)

Price Range: $10,000-$50,000+ Known For: Fifty Fathoms dive watch, no quartz ever Movements: In-house manufacture Best Models:

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms ($14,000-18,000)
Blancpain Villeret ($12,000-20,000)

Why They’re Great: “Only mechanical watches since 1735.” True manufacture.

Tier 5: Haute Horlogerie ($50,000+)

What You Get: The absolute pinnacle of watchmaking, complications, art

Patek Philippe (Switzerland)

Price Range: $30,000-$millions Known For: “You never own a Patek, you merely look after it for the next generation” Movements: Entirely in-house, Patek Philippe Seal Best Models:

Patek Philippe Calatrava ($25,000-35,000)
Patek Philippe Nautilus ($35,000 retail, $100,000+ gray market)
Patek Philippe Aquanaut ($20,000 retail, $50,000+ gray market)

Why They’re Great: Investment-grade, best resale in industry, ultimate prestige.

A. Lange & Söhne (Germany)

Price Range: $20,000-$500,000+ Known For: German precision, twice-assembled Movements: In-house, hand-finished to perfection Best Models:

Lange 1 ($30,000-50,000)
Saxonia ($20,000-40,000)

Why They’re Great: Watch enthusiasts’ choice. Finishing rivals Patek at slightly lower prices.

Vacheron Constantin (Switzerland)

Price Range: $20,000-$millions Known For: Oldest continuously operating manufacturer (1755) Movements: In-house, complications Best Models:

Vacheron Constantin Overseas ($25,000-40,000)
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony ($20,000-35,000)

Why They’re Great: Holy Trinity member, ultimate heritage, exceptional finishing.

Brands to Avoid

Fashion Brands (Daniel Wellington, MVMT, Michael Kors, Fossil):

Cheap Chinese movements in pretty cases
Paying for marketing, not quality
$200 watch sold for $150 with “50% off” gimmicks
Zero resale value

Invicta:

Cheap quality despite large size
Deceptive “MSRP” pricing ($3,000 MSRP, $150 actual)
Poor reputation among collectors

Most Kickstarter Microbrands:

Rebadged Chinese watches
No service network
Often disappear after campaign
Exceptions: Some genuine enthusiast brands exist, but research carefully

Best Value by Budget

$100-500: Seiko 5, Orient Bambino, Citizen Eco-Drive $500-1,000: Hamilton Khaki Field, Tissot PRX, Seiko Presage $1,000-2,000: Longines Master, Oris Aquis, Hamilton Intra-Matic $2,000-5,000: Tudor Black Bay 58, Grand Seiko mechanical, Omega (used) $5,000-10,000: Omega Seamaster/Speedmaster, Grand Seiko Spring Drive, Rolex Explorer (if available) $10,000+: Rolex Submariner, JLC Master Ultra Thin, Audemars Piguet (used)

Brand Relationship Map

Swatch Group (owns):

Omega, Longines, Tissot, Hamilton, Breguet, Blancpain, Jaquet Droz

Rolex Group (owns):

Rolex, Tudor

Richemont (owns):

Cartier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, Panerai, A. Lange & Söhne

LVMH (owns):

TAG Heuer, Hublot, Zenith

Independent:

Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Rolex, Seiko, Grand Seiko, Oris

Takeaway

Best value tiers: Entry ($100-500) and Enthusiast ($500-2,000)
Luxury sweet spot: $3,000-6,000 (Tudor, Grand Seiko, Omega)
Investment watches: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet (but expect waiting lists and inflated prices)
Avoid: Fashion brands, Invicta, questionable microbrands

Focus on:

What you love to wear
Build quality and movement type
Value for money
Not just brand prestige

Next Steps

Understanding Movements - What powers these brands
Collection Strategy - Building a balanced collection
Watch Database - Browse specific models