Watch Care & Maintenance

Proper care extends your watch’s life from years to decades (or even centuries). Here’s everything you need to know about maintaining mechanical, automatic, and quartz watches.

Daily Care & Best Practices

Wearing Your Watch

DO:

• Put watch on after getting dressed (avoid snagging)
• Adjust bracelet for comfort (should move slightly)
• Remove before high-impact activities (unless it’s a G-Shock)
• Let skin breathe (take off occasionally)
• Alternate watches if you have multiple

DON’T:

• Wear in shower/bath (unless dive watch rated 100m+)
• Adjust crown while on wrist (causes wear)
• Wear too tight (restricts blood flow, damages watch)
• Sleep in your watch (unnecessary wear, skin needs air)
• Expose to extreme temperature changes

Handling the Crown

Winding (Mechanical Watches):

1. Unscrew crown (if screw-down)
2. Wind clockwise smoothly (20-40 half-turns for full wind)
3. Stop when you feel resistance (don’t force!)
4. Push crown in, screw down (if applicable)

Best practice: Wind at same time daily (morning routine)

Setting the Time:

1. Pull crown to time-setting position (usually 2nd position)
2. Turn smoothly (avoid quick snaps)
3. Push crown back, screw down

Setting the Date: ⚠️ DANGER ZONE: Never change date between 9pm-3am

• Date mechanism is engaged during these hours
• Changing date now can damage gears
• If watch shows 9pm-3am: advance time to 6am first, then set date

Water Resistance Reality Check

Water Resistance Ratings (The Truth):

Important:

• “30m” doesn’t mean you can swim at 30 meters depth
• Ratings are static lab tests, not real-world conditions
• Hot water (shower) expands gaskets = reduced WR
• Age degrades gaskets = reduced WR over time

Conservative Rules:

• 30m: Keep it dry
• 50m: Shower okay, no swimming
• 100m: Swimming okay, no diving
• 200m+: Dive away

Magnetic Fields (The Silent Killer)

Common Magnetic Sources:

• Smartphones (put in different pocket!)
• Laptop speakers and charging ports
• Magnetic clasps (purses, iPad covers)
• Refrigerator doors
• Induction cooktops
• MRI machines (NEVER!)

Symptoms of Magnetization:

• Watch suddenly runs fast (gaining minutes per day)
• Erratic timekeeping
• Stops intermittently

Solution:

• Demagnetization (free at most watch shops, takes 30 seconds)
• Or buy demagnetizer ($15-30 on Amazon)

Prevention:

• Keep watch away from magnetic sources
• Don’t leave on laptop
• Consider anti-magnetic watch (Omega METAS, Rolex Milgauss)

Cleaning Your Watch

Daily Cleaning (Bracelet Watches)

What You Need:

• Soft microfiber cloth
• Lukewarm water
• Soft toothbrush (only if 100m+ WR)
• Mild soap (optional)

Process:

1. Wipe down daily with microfiber cloth (removes oils, dirt)
2. Weekly: Dampen cloth with water, wipe watch
3. Monthly (if 100m+ WR): Use soft toothbrush on bracelet links with soapy water
4. Rinse thoroughly, dry completely
5. Ensure crown fully screwed down before water contact

Leather Strap Care

DO:

• Wipe with dry cloth after wearing
• Let strap dry completely between wears
• Use leather conditioner occasionally (sparingly!)
• Rotate straps to extend life
• Store in cool, dry place

DON’T:

• Get wet if avoidable (water damages leather)
• Wear in summer heat (sweat destroys leather)
• Oversaturate with conditioner (attracts dirt)
• Expect leather to last forever (1-3 years typical)

Leather Strap Lifespan:

• Daily wear: 6-18 months
• Rotated wear: 2-3 years
• Careful wear: 3-5 years

Replacement: $20-$200 depending on quality

Rubber/Silicone Strap Care

Easiest to maintain:

• Wash with soap and water
• Scrub with toothbrush
• Rinse, air dry
• Lasts 5-10+ years easily

Watch Storage

Short-Term Storage (Daily)

Watch Box/Tray:

• Keep away from magnetic sources
• Room temperature, low humidity
• Out of direct sunlight (fades dials)
• Not in bathroom (humidity)

Watch Rolls (Travel):

• Padded protection
• Separate compartments (avoid scratches)
• Keep in carry-on (never checked luggage!)

Long-Term Storage

If Not Wearing for Months:

Automatic Watches:

• Let them stop (no harm done)
• Wind and set when you wear again
• OR: Use watch winder (see below)

Mechanical Watches:

• Let them stop
• Lubrication stays distributed better when still

Quartz Watches:

• Will keep running (battery life)
• No special care needed

Watch Winders (Do You Need One?)

You NEED a winder if:

• Watch has perpetual calendar (pain to reset)
• Watch has annual calendar
• You wear multiple automatics in rotation

You DON’T need a winder if:

• Simple time/date watch (takes 30 seconds to set)
• You wear watch daily
• Budget watch (not worth winder cost)

Good Winders: $100-500 (Wolf, Orbita) Bad Winders: $30 cheap ones (can damage watch)

Settings:

• TPD (turns per day): Check manufacturer specs (typically 650-900)
• Direction: Bidirectional usually safe

When to Service Your Watch

Service Intervals

Mechanical/Automatic:

• Frequency: Every 5-7 years
• Cost: $200-$1,200+ (depends on brand)
• Why: Lubrication dries out, parts wear

Quartz:

• Frequency: Battery replacement every 2-5 years ($20-50)
• Full service: Every 10-15 years (if you care to)

Signs Your Watch Needs Service NOW

⚠️ Immediate service needed if:

• Gaining/losing >30 seconds per day suddenly
• Stops frequently
• Crown feels gritty or difficult to turn
• Second hand stuttering or jumping
• Moisture inside crystal (URGENT!)
• Physical damage to case or crystal

What Happens During Service

Full Mechanical Service:

1. Disassembly: Movement completely taken apart
2. Cleaning: Parts ultrasonically cleaned
3. Inspection: All parts examined for wear
4. Replacement: Worn parts replaced
5. Lubrication: Fresh lubricant applied
6. Reassembly: Movement rebuilt
7. Regulation: Timing adjusted across positions
8. Case work: Gaskets replaced, water resistance tested
9. Testing: Worn for several days, timed

Timeline: 2-6 weeks (luxury brands: 4-12 weeks)

Service Costs by Brand

Budget Brands:

• Seiko, Orient, Citizen: $150-$300
• Timex: Often not worth servicing (buy new)

Mid-Range:

• Hamilton, Tissot, Longines: $250-$500
• Oris: $350-$600

Luxury:

• Tudor: $500-$700
• Omega: $600-$900
• Rolex: $700-$1,200
• Grand Seiko: $500-$800

High Luxury:

• JLC, IWC: $800-$1,500
• Patek Philippe: $1,500-$5,000+
• Complicated watches: $2,000-$10,000+

DIY Maintenance (What You Can Do)

Safe DIY Tasks:

✅ Change NATO/fabric straps (tool-less) ✅ Change leather straps (with spring bar tool, $10) ✅ Demagnetize (with demagnetizer tool, $20) ✅ Regulate (if you have experience, use timegrapher) ✅ Replace watch battery (quartz, if you’re careful)

NEVER DIY:

❌ Open caseback (risks dust, misalignment, water resistance) ❌ Service movement (requires training and tools) ❌ Polish case (ruins brushed finishes, removes metal) ❌ Repair crystal scratches (needs professional tools) ❌ Replace gaskets (requires pressure testing after)

Common Problems & Solutions

Problem: Watch Runs Fast/Slow

Possible Causes:

1. Magnetization (most common)
2. Needs regulation
3. Needs service (old lubrication)
4. Impact damage

Solutions:

1. Demagnetize (try this first!)
2. Have watchmaker regulate
3. Service if >5 years old
4. Assess repair cost vs. replacement

Problem: Watch Stops Overnight

Possible Causes:

1. Insufficient winding (automatic)
2. Low power reserve (needs service)
3. Magnetization

Solutions:

1. Hand-wind if possible, wear more actively
2. Service if old
3. Demagnetize

Problem: Crown Won’t Screw Down

Possible Causes:

1. Cross-threading
2. Dirt/grime in threads
3. Damaged threads

Solutions:

1. Don’t force! Unscrew fully, try again carefully
2. Clean threads with soft toothbrush
3. Take to watchmaker (may need crown replacement)

Problem: Moisture Under Crystal

THIS IS URGENT!

Immediate actions:

1. Stop wearing watch
2. Pull crown out (if safe to do so)
3. Take to watchmaker SAME DAY if possible

Why urgent:

• Moisture causes rust
• Rust destroys movement rapidly (days/weeks)
• Delay = much higher repair cost or total loss

Problem: Crystal Scratches

Acrylic Crystal:

• Can be polished out (Polywatch, $10)
• DIY-friendly

Sapphire Crystal:

• Nearly scratch-proof (only diamond or sapphire scratches it)
• If scratched, needs professional replacement ($100-500)
• Not worth it unless deep scratch

Hesalite (Omega Speedmaster):

• Type of acrylic, polishes easily
• Part of the watch’s charm (authentic to moonwatch)

Travel with Watches

Flying

Carry-On:

• Always carry-on (never check!)
• Wear through security or put in bin
• No special declarations needed (usually)

Timezone Changes:

• GMT watches: Adjust GMT hand only
• Regular watches: Pull crown, adjust hour hand (if quick-set hour)
• Otherwise: Advance time fully (don’t go backwards if date involved)

Traveling to High-Risk Areas

Consider:

• Leave expensive watches at home
• Wear G-Shock or cheap beater
• Insurance coverage (check policy)
• Safety over flex

Insurance & Documentation

When to Insure

Insure if:

• Watch worth >$2,000
• Irreplaceable sentimental value
• You travel frequently

Insurance Options:

1. Homeowner’s/Renter’s: Often covers up to $1,500
2. Jewelry Rider: Added to homeowner’s policy ($50-100/year per $10k value)
3. Specialty (Hodinkee Insurance, Lavalier): Designed for watches

Keep Records

Document:

• Purchase receipt (proof of value)
• Photos (case, caseback, serial number, full watch)
• Service records
• Appraisals (if high value)
• Store digitally (cloud backup)

Extending Watch Lifespan

Simple habits = decades of life:

1. Wind gently (don’t force crown)
2. Avoid shocks (don’t wear automatic while hammering)
3. Keep dry (respect water resistance ratings)
4. Service on time (prevention cheaper than repair)
5. Store properly (avoid magnets, humidity, sunlight)
6. Rotate watches (spreads wear across collection)
7. Use proper tools (spring bar tool for straps, not a knife!)

Final Thoughts

Your watch can outlive you with proper care. Vintage Rolexes from the 1950s still run perfectly today because owners followed basic maintenance.

Two rules:

1. Wear it (watches are meant to be used, not safe queens)
2. Care for it (basic maintenance goes a long way)

Treat your watch well, and it becomes an heirloom.

Next Steps

• Understanding Movements - Know what you’re maintaining
• Watch Brands - Service costs by brand
• Sizing Guide - Proper bracelet fit prevents wear